It is easy for any one of us to stand before a mirror, all alone, and find fault. For the vast majority of us, it is a part of the human condition. Given the opportunity to change something, what would it be? We each have a varied list. Finding the things we love, the things we readily accept, well... that is a bit more difficult.
A visit to any salon brings hope that we will find our best selves reflected back in the mirror. The desire to improve upon what already exists. It's a tall order for any stylist, but so many do it daily with grace and style. In Philadelphia alone there are any number of good salons with amazingly talented stylists. As a boy, I loathed going to the barbershop almost as much as I did the dentist. My experiences with the unisex salons of the 70's were just as disappointing. I never found my best self reflected back. Often the person who emerged from the salon was still a skinny awkward lad with a haircut that was kind of sad. That my ears stuck out too far or my nose was too big didn't help. No matter where I went or what I did... mousse, blowdryer, gel, spray, I was never going to look like the hero of Saturday Night Fever, and my low self image was not going to be changed by a haircut. Though I have come to believe that perhaps a great haircut is where it all begins.
Once I found a great barber/stylist who did amazing work, I began to see a better self reflected. As I matured, I found clothes that fit, made peace with my ears, grew into my nose and took some exercise. I still have low self image days but I recognize the transformative power of the cut. I've bet my entire future on it. Why? Because the line between good and amazing is razor thin. Learning how to replicate a haircut versus learning the principles of proper hair cutting design approach is the difference between plucking out heart and soul on a piano and playing Free Jazz and the Avant-Garde. The great jazz musician Charlie Parker once said it this way "You've got to learn your instrument. Then, you practice, practice, practice. And then, when you finally get up there on the bandstand, forget all that and just wail."
As a teacher and manager, I know can be a difficult task master. I test the limits of what you know, what you think you know and what you strive to become. I've created an experience to give clients that is not always your favorite way to operate. So let me break it down as I see it: When you first came to me, I warned you that it was going to be a bumpy ride. I instructed you to learn all of your tools, study theory design specific approach, understand the fundamentals of why you are doing all the things you will do. I stress to every student that simply learning how to do the latest "cut or style" isn't going to get you any further than the length of that trend. Once any talented stylist can master the fundamentals of design approach, anything is possible (for the record.. you are all very talented). Natasha would quip that this is the first lesson you learn in beauty school, and she would be right. But I know that once behind the chair, paying the rent, paying student loans, trying to carve out a life, have relationships, the fundamentals can be easily muscled out. And everyone knows my feeling about finishing with a good blow-dry not being a worthy endeavor unless the same results will be achieved easily by the client at home (with the exception of an actual scheduled and charged blow out).
Another salon owner once told me he thought our place was a mix of salon "X" and salon "Y". It was meant as a compliment but I thought to myself "f%#k that!" The vision was never to make us any one thing. Individualism, technical ability and artistry is the vision. Over all. That being said, someone still has to worry about keeping a roof over our heads. That is where my crazy takes over. Nothing is possible if we don't respect the bottom line. I wish I were a more patient man. Someone once suggested I pray for patience but I found the universe just created more opportunities for me to practice patience so.. I've come to realize that I will not be the most beloved man in town, and though I am no Scrooge, I am no Fezziwig either. Knowing myself enough to know that some things are innate often helps to soften the cudgel with which I punish myself. Less rigidity equals less strife. I work each day to be less rigid. Not everyone is going to get me. Not everyone is going to want to stay in our house. The goal we share is to strengthen the individual in order to strengthen the entire team. Whatever happens from there is really none of our business. As long as you are trained and continue to do amazing work, most of my job has been accomplished.
A haircut won't change who we are, whether we are getting, giving or teaching, but I do believe it is a place where we can all begin. And in no small measure, because of you and this place, I continue to learn how to love myself.
This year's business-building, networking and learning conference took place at the Ritz Carlton, Grande Lakes Orlando. The theme revolved around Building The Ultimate Experience" for our clients, the third pillar to building a successful multi-unit salon and spa company, (the first two foundational steps —Humanology and The Multi-Generational Workplace—were established over the past two conferences). The content dove deeply into the “how” behind creating the experiences that will link salon and spa guests, team members and the community—both locally and the broader salon industry community—with strong and long-lasting bonds.
The keynotes were informative, the panels thought-provoking, and the breakouts were eye opening. The parts I initially thought would be droll, the networking sessions and social events, were nothing short of amazing. The people with whom I met, chatted and traded ideas were inspiring. I had a blast and gained a multitude of perspectives. For the first time in quite a while, I was able to lean into my role as Creative Director and in doing so, a world of possibilities began to open. Salon and spa owners, chain salons, product manufacturers, vendors... the conversations were incredible. Hearing their stories offered me new perspectives and insights, to learn what I did not yet know I was missing. I formed new friendships and connected to opportunities not as yet imagined.
Those who know me know I'm not much for a happy hour. This group certainly knew how to make the most of a creative cocktail party. During the first night's scavenger hunt, I meandered with my crew through several properties before finding my way back to the main meet up, and along the way I enjoyed the company of amazingly accomplished individuals. Hearing others tell their stories of struggle and success has helped me to find perspective on what I am attempting to acheive. Multi-unit (and multi-generational) salon owners schooled me in the finer points of trusting and letting go, of embracing all aspects of these last two years getting my newest ventures up and running. On the very first day I found myself paddling down a lazy river past alligators and snakes in peels of laughter with my canoe mate. The uncanny ability I possess for running aground and hitting other enthusiasts must have been unsettling, and though I was looking to land a more dignified impression, I soon caught on to the realness of these folks. Sure, every group has their qualifiers, the people who list their accomplishments and their sales numbers. But the people who impressed me the most, who had the most to teach, who were the most generous with their time and talent didn't give a flip about that stuff. They gave me something greater to shoot for as an entrepreneur. As my role as Creative Director for Joe Grooming continues to take shape, I am keenly aware that all of life is a series of relationships. The ability to meet one another where we are at any given moment. The opportunities that arrive when we least expect them. And at he heart of the matter there is only so much we can do. Suit up, show up, and simply be yourself.
the day is perpetual morning
vision is subjective. it varies depending upon where you stand. i do not believe that one vision is better than another. however i do like to think vision is about fit. what wears best. what you are willing to try on and, depending upon your level of comfort, either own or try on something else. our salon is no different. for two years i have been sitting upon a pre-signed lease that until recently i could not execute. that is how long i have been planning this day. as an impatient and brash younger man, i never could have done this. funny how life leads us where it may. for those who care to read on, i’d like to share a bit of my adventure and how we ended up at this point in our story.
when i was young, very young, i liked to create hair styles with my friends (girls) dolls. i did not want to dress them or play act, just groom, cut and style. i did once try to use color but friends don’t look kindly to shoe polished barbie brunettes. i put away these childish things but never lost touch with my inner hairdresser. fast forward through a very long and turbulent post adolescence. if i were allowed a do-over, i would drop out of high school circa 1978, run away to london and become a part of the amazing movement in hair that took place in that era. in short, i would have begun this path earlier. though some people dream of a different life, i dream more of the same. i began my barber/stylist career in a bathroom with a pair of clippers and a six pack of Molson Ale. the results were horrendous but the dye was cast. a few days later i enrolled in cosmetology school. my professional career had begun. i was hired for my first job at the once prestigious John Wanamaker Salon (shabby and fraying at the edges). at that phase of the salon’s lifecycle, it afforded me ample opportunity to practice my craft and pull my personal shit together. then a year at Strawbridge and Clothier (amazing dental benefits..) then down 13th street to a new salon called CUT where i pulled in as many new clients as possible. then a very brief and surreal stint at Invincible. this is when i realized i was responsible for creating my own happiness. ergo, The Atlas Hair Co. my first solo venture. it would be prudent to note at this point that i had been chosen by a new product manufacturer, American Crew, as a local educator. and soon after, a national all-star. my clients never quite understood what i did after closing the salon on Saturday afternoon until opening again Wednesday morning but in laymen’s terms, my teammates and i were making history. American Crew had five products when i began working with the company. i was trained by some of the finest barber/stylist the world has ever known. American Crew broke the boundaries of all previous educational experiences and re-created the market segment for the male client. today, an entire generation of stylist’s work is influenced by the groundbreaking work of American Crew. though i was more of a method workhorse educator, my teammates were brilliant editorialists who could create styles that are still interpreted, reinterpreted, shorn and worn today.
in 1999 i tried to do something really stupid. i envisioned the expansion of Atlas while creating the Philadelphia Soap Company. my idea failed for a multitude of reasons, not the least of which was my inability to look at the whole picture. i learned a great deal about success through the process of failure. for the record, i define failure as the collapse of an idea or venture. once i could master this, duross & langel was possible. we closed the salon in 2007 so that we could move the store and expand operations. though i knew my days as a stylist were over, my mentor/educator life just needed an extended vacation. i still teach for Joe Grooming when not developing new product ideas for the line, but it has become crystal clear where my passions have reignited. welcome to today.
in my opinion, nothing worth having is easy. the trick is not getting what you want. it’s still wanting it after you get it. things worth building come with challenges. coming up with money is the easy part. finding someone who can interpret and build your vision, though a bit tougher, is made true by other craftsmen who show up and excel (thank you Matt Bruno). populating the place with like-minded individuals is tougher still. this is where ample patience is needed. patience is a struggle for me (at the moment though, i am breathing through it). what i am attempting to do within this space is very different from what many salons do. i imagine many will think my methods a bit mad. everyone likes to think they know it all. know it best. most days i am no exception. creating a tiered yet democratic salon is tricky. like me, many stylists fresh out of school can’t afford to spend months on end being an assistant. many people like me have to cut. and cut. and cut. and cut. that is how we master. so? make one room a workshop where even the most novice of stylists can hone their craft while making some coin. the price is sweet for the client and the results are still better than the most chainy of the chain salons. for the record, just because a salon is well appointed and the prices keep out riff raff like me does not mean you are getting what you paid for. but i digress. in the salon, stylists will have to set their own prices based on the level of talent and experience they bring to the space. you just want a wash and cut? this much. you want a cut and blow out? this much. color too? you get the idea. it’s not a new one. just an idea that need to be reclaimed and repurposed. i’ve been told it’s not going to work. but i was told no one would come to my store to purchase hand made natural bath and skin care either. this is happening. you can find me filed somewhere between anxious and elated.
Thoreau once wrote "to one whose elastic and vigorous thoughts keep pace with the sun, the day is a perpetual morning. It matters not the labors and attitudes of men, morning is when I am awake and there is dawn in me."
there is dawn in us all. come join us in the adventure.
A few weeks ago, @natashapickettstylist collaborated of an amazing photo shoot that recently went to print. Here is her story. Model: @jessmariecady Makeup: @jazminrae_makeup Photography: @photosbylemuel Studio: @maebeesbeautystudio